Ratchet straps are the most reliable way to stop furniture and boxes shifting in a transit or Luton van. Most damage that happens during a move isn’t from dropping things — it’s from a wardrobe sliding into a chest of drawers on a roundabout. So whether you’re hiring a local man and van to move something for you, or DIYing a move – this guide covers how to use them properly, including common mistakes that people make even when they think they’ve got everything tied down.
What you actually need
For most man-and-van jobs, you’ll use a combination of ratchet straps for anything heavy or large, bungee cords for lighter items that just need steadying, and moving blankets to protect surfaces and stop items scratching each other. Cargo nets are useful when you have a collection of loose smaller items that would otherwise shift around. Most transit and Luton vans have D-ring anchor points running along the lower sides of the cargo area. Those are what your straps hook onto. Check them before you start loading, because a damaged anchor point is worse than no anchor point.
If you’re moving anything fragile, whether antiques, artwork, or anything with glass, treating it as fragile item delivery rather than general cargo makes a real difference to how you pack and secure it.
Loading order matters more than people think
Heaviest things go against the bulkhead at the cab end. Sofas, wardrobes, washing machines — get them in first and push them as far forward as they’ll go. The weight sitting over the rear axle and close to the cab is what keeps a loaded van driving predictably. Load it the other way round and you’ll feel it on the first roundabout.
Even weight distribution side-to-side matters too. A van loaded entirely on the left sits and steers differently to one with the weight spread across the floor. Stack boxes against the sides and fill gaps so nothing has space to slide.
How to use ratchet straps
D-ring on one side, over or around the item, D-ring on the other side, then thread the loose end through the ratchet and work the handle. You want it firm, not brutal. If the strap is tight enough to dent cardboard you’ve gone too far. For furniture the aim is that the piece can’t shift, not that it’s being compressed — if the wood or upholstery is visibly distorting under the strap, back it off.
A single strap through the middle of a tall bookcase doesn’t stop the top from swinging forward under braking. Two straps — one near the base, one higher up — deal with that.
Protect surfaces where the strap makes contact. Corners of a wooden chest of drawers under a tight ratchet strap will leave a mark. A folded moving blanket between the strap and the surface takes 10 seconds and prevents a problem.
What to use bungee cords and cargo nets for
Bungee cords are for lighter items that need to stay put rather than items that need to be held under real tension. A box of kitchen bits, a bag of bedding, a lampshade. They’re quick to fit and fine for that use. Don’t use them on anything heavy or anything that would do damage coming loose. The hooks can slip under vibration and the cords have a limited load rating.
Cargo nets work well when you have a group of small items that would otherwise scatter. Hook the corners to D-rings over a box stack in the back. Not as secure as individual strapping but better than nothing for lighter loads.
Longer trips
On longer runs the load settles over the first few miles and straps that felt tight leaving the pickup address can be noticeably looser by the time you reach the motorway. Soft furnishings compress under tension, which accounts for most of it. Pull over somewhere sensible after 15 or 20 minutes and check the main straps on your heaviest pieces. After that, once at services is usually enough.
For long distance moving this matters more than on a local job. A 20 minute drive and a 3 hour drive put very different loads through the same strapping.
Fragile items
Blankets on before any straps go near fragile items. Wrap first, then secure. Glass-topped furniture and mirrors do better travelling upright than flat — they’re actually more vulnerable horizontal than standing. Use bungee cords rather than ratchet straps on anything delicate. You want the item held steady, not under real tension.
Before you set off
Walk through the cargo area before you close the doors. Push any large item firmly — if it moves, strap it. Check nothing is resting against the van doors in a way that’ll fall out when they’re opened at the other end. Check that tall items can’t topple forward onto the cab wall. A moving company doing this professionally will go through it as a matter of routine, but if you’re loading yourself or helping a driver load, do it systematically.
Driving a loaded van
Braking distances in a loaded Luton are longer than most people expect, especially if they’re not used to driving one. Give yourself more space, take roundabouts wider and slower, and don’t leave braking late. If something shifts, find somewhere safe to pull over. Opening the rear doors at the destination and finding half the load on its side is annoying. Dealing with it while moving is considerably worse.
Unloading
Open the rear doors carefully, particularly if the van has been loaded tight. Items can shift in transit and lean against the doors. Stand to one side when opening rather than directly behind. Release straps before trying to move anything. On a Luton with a tail lift, make sure the lift is rated for what you’re putting on it.
FAQs
What’s the difference between ratchet straps and bungee cords?
Ratchet straps are the right tool for furniture and anything with real weight. They lock under load and hold. Bungee cords stretch, which is fine for keeping a bag from sliding around but not for keeping a wardrobe in place. If it’s heavy, use ratchet straps.
How tight should a ratchet strap be?
Firm enough that you can push the item and it doesn’t move. Pad the contact points with a folded moving blanket before tightening — it stops the strap marking the surface. Beyond that, if it’s not shifting, it’s tight enough.
How many straps do I need?
Two minimum for anything tall. One strap through the middle of a wardrobe doesn’t stop the top from swinging when you brake. If you’re short on straps, tie the piece to something stable next to it rather than relying on a single strap across the middle.
What if I don’t have enough anchor points?
Strap items to each other as well as to the van. A sofa strapped to a wardrobe that’s strapped to the van wall is more stable than either item alone. Fill gaps between items with boxes or padding so nothing has space to travel.
Can I overload a transit van?
Yes, and it’s a legal issue as well as a safety one. A standard transit typically has a payload of around 1,000 to 1,200kg depending on the model, a Luton generally more. Overloading affects handling, braking, and tyre wear. Check the van’s plated weight before loading anything particularly heavy.
